How To Care Rabbit

Accommodation  

Opting for rabbit cages are also important. It should be noted vent hutch. These cages are more appropriate for ventilation and barn hygiene. But also easy to iron cage to pet hurt if their legs were cut or bike on the grid iron nails in the mesh. Therefore, the floor should have been made with 1 part rabbit legs can put to rest. Iron cages easy to clean than wood barn. However, should also put paper towels on the floor or to avoid the rabbit leg hurt by iron wire.

    Except when raised to fertility, the rabbit, which should be removed to prevent ovarian cancer. In addition, there are also benefits for the castrated male rabbit. If not, they still mark their territory with urine.

    Rabbits quite aggressive unless they are locked up. The removal of the ovaries or fire can reduce their aggressive behavior. Do not confine 2 rabbits in cages shared together unless intended insemination. A normal rabbit can become aggressive if it's locked cage with a rabbit general other. This is normal but it does not happen very common. Many rabbits do not care or pay attention to the other with a live rabbit.

    Like cats, rabbits indispensable foundation. Lack of padding in the soles, nails should rabbits need for balance; removal of rabbits nails would make them unable to stand, permanently disabled.

    If well cared for, rabbits will become friendly and fun. Rabbits reared as a pet indoors and outdoors worldwide. Living in the rabbit will be safer (not to mention the cables and wires), to avoid the predators, parasitic disease and the sudden temperature changes. Rabbit farming outside the cave must have been equipped and heating in winter and shade in summer. House rabbits are suitable for temperatures between 10-21 degrees C (50-70 degrees F) and can not tolerate long been at 32 degrees C (90 degrees F) if there is no shade, fans or water cold

  

Food and farming

     

A rabbit should be to drink plenty of water and eat a lot of hay daily. What kind of dark green vegetables and leaves such as lettuce, cabbage, mustard, green cabbage, kale plants, parsley, dandelion and basil ... great for rabbits. Carrots and fruits should be less than (about 1 tablespoon with 1 pound of rabbit weight, regular 2 days / times) because these foods are high in sugar. The more root vegetables such as potato flour should be avoided. As for the rabbits to eat, so start with a certain vegetables, then add other variety, until the rabbits are accustomed to 3 or more vegetables, eat a variety of work it will make it more interesting . At the start of the rabbits eat vegetables, so feeding them poorly with Timothy grass or oats daily.

    When choosing commercial foods, choose those dishes without nuts because nuts contain more fat than the fat that rabbits can easily metabolized, cause health problems such as fatty liver. Seeds are used as feed for rodents, because rabbits do not belong to the rodents of this food should be avoided.

    Pellet feed can be fed each day with an amount of about 1 ounce (28.35 g), corresponding to 1 pound (about 450g) weight of the rabbit. However, pellet feed should be provided as one side because foods feed pellets for rabbits can cause dental disease. Daily chewing grass will abrasion of rabbit incisors (front teeth rabbit grows continuously as the gnawing). Feed pellets for rabbits breeding should be used only for food because it helps increase significant. When rabbit pellet food, it does not need to add salt fills the pellets have a high salt content; but in general, the salt content does not affect the health of the rabbit.

    House rabbits need daily care to prevent infectious diseases and the rapidly developing disease. Rabbit eye must be kept clean, natural and all other parts, too. Teeth should not be too long otherwise it will be difficult to eat. However, no grinding or sanding arbitrarily rabbit teeth, it is best to seek advice from a veterinarian. If the tooth is actually clipped to the rabbit, do not worry, there will be a natural method because after the first time rabbit teeth grinding down, people will do it more regularly. 1 rabbit teeth can lengthen 5 inches (2.54 cm) / year if they are not worn to protect the health of the rabbit. Rabbit teeth clipped the last method can be used. To ensure long buck teeth, we can give them chew toys oat grass or wood. Beard rabbit is one agency should not feel cut off.

    The hug or catch rabbits must be experts or those rabbits instructions. Never be picked up by holding the rabbit ears. When holding rabbits, to make sure that 4 feet it has also been retained to avoid being kicked. If rabbits trying too hard stones will break its back. Another useful advice is to catch rabbits by lightly skim it, to head it into the elbow. It should be noted that the blindfold rabbit also makes it more reassuring because rabbits do not see what would make safe and feel safe.

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How to Train a Rabbit

Rabbits are very intelligent, social animals that can be trained quite easily. Unfortunately, many humans fail to train their rabbits, either because they use the wrong approach or they don’t spend enough time on training. If you want to build a better relationship with your bunny, and train them right, you simply need to hop right in and get started!

1

Understand what motivates your rabbit. Rabbits are very intelligent and eagerly respond to incentives. This means that strong punishment, such as spanking or yelling at a rabbit, won’t make it more cooperative. If you use incentives correctly, however, most rabbits will respond accordingly.

• Food is generally used as motivator, but toys may also be a reward for your rabbit.
• Rabbits are prey animals, so if they feel frightened they will usually flee and try to find somewhere to hide. If they exhibit this behavior, it means that you need to find a way to make them feel more comfortable and safe before attempting to train them.

2

Understand how a rabbit uses sight and smell. Bunnies do not see well directly in front of their faces. Their eyes are set far apart on the head and so they see to the side and far away better than up close.

• The rabbit will use scent and whisker feedback to detect anything in the immediate environment more so than sight, so you will want to place treats under the rabbit’s nose and mouth.
• You may notice that rabbits change their head position as you get closer. This is an effort to see you better, like a person with bifocals trying to get the glasses and their eyes lined up to see.
• Rabbits are prey animals and need to see predators from far away, so that they can run and hide in time to save themselves.^[1] Because of this, before you touch it, you need to let the rabbit see and smell you. This will give you an easier time handling the rabbit. By letting it see and smell you, it can verify that you are not a predator, and therefore no danger to it.

3

Remember that kindness goes a long way with a rabbit. Rabbits respond to kindness and will make excellent companions who will respond positively to your voice and presence if you treat them well. While you must have your rabbit’s respect in order to train it, you’ll be most successful if your rabbit also feels loved and comfortable in your presence.

• Not all rabbits enjoy being stroked, but some enjoy it so much that stroking can be an even better incentive than food. Spend plenty of quality time petting your rabbit, and attend to all its basic needs so that it feels secure and comfortable in your home.
• Never hold your bunny by the ears! Don't hurt your rabbit. Be kind and gentle to your fluffy friend and it will respond more positively to your training.

Method 2 of 4: Training Your Rabbit to Follow Commands

1

Devote plenty of time to training. For best results plan on initially devoting a little time every day to training your rabbit. Two or three short sessions of 5 to 10 minutes at a time will keep your bunny interested in learning.^[2]

2

Use your rabbit’s favorite treats. Since training is based on incentives, you’ll need to find a treat that provides the most positive response. If you don’t know what your rabbit’s favorite treat is experiment a little. You can offer a new food, in small amounts to avoid digestive upset, once a day and watch the rabbit’s response. If they leave it alone, then it won’t work as a treat, but if the bunny munches it right down, you have a winner.

• If you’re not sure if a particular food is safe for your rabbit, check with your veterinarian (one that is familiar with rabbits). Do not feed anything but vegetables, greens, or fruit to your bunny.
• If your rabbit is not used to eating much fruit or fresh greens, go easy on the amounts for a few weeks to avoid causing diarrhea or digestive upset.^[3]
• Your rabbit may like Blueberries or Kale or Carrot (try shreds of carrot) as a treat.^[4]

3

Get your rabbit in position for training. Stage your training in the area and situation where and when you will want the behavior to occur. For example, if you want to teach your rabbit to jump up on your lap when called, first put it near the couch. If you want to train it to go in its crate at night, train it around the appropriate time, and make sure its crate is positioned where it will normally be.

4

Have a plan. Start simple. Carefully plan what you want your rabbit to perform and break that task down into small steps. You will reward the rabbit after completing each new step. Once the rabbit is performing the task with regularity and confidence, give the command a name.

5

Give your rabbit a treat immediately when your rabbit does something you want to reward. If the rabbit sits up as you lift your hand above its head as if sitting up to beg, give the treat right away to reinforce “sit up.” The reward will need to be given within 2-3 seconds of the behavior.

• If the rabbit does something else before you give the treat, you are reinforcing the wrong behavior.
• If you want to teach your rabbit to come when called, start its training by having it positioned very close to you. When it comes to you, give it the reward. Be consistent so that your fluffy companion knows why it's getting treats.
• Use the exact same commands, such as “Sit, (Your Rabbit's Name),” or “Up, (Your Rabbit's Name),” every time, so your rabbit will learn to recognize your requests and associate those exact words with getting a treat.
• Add praise to the act of giving the treat. For instance, “Good Sit” or “Good Up.”

6

Keep providing the treats until your rabbit responds correctly nearly every time. When you’re trying to teach a new skill, don’t skimp on the rewards. You need to make sure you are thoroughly conditioning your rabbit.

• If you are training your rabbit to allow a harness to be placed, start with rewarding the bunny for going over to the harness on the floor and sniffing or touching the item. Work up to placing the harness on the bunny’s back and rewarding them for staying still. Reward the bunny for calmly allowing you to lift up a front leg then work up to placing their foot through the appropriate part of the harness. Reward as you go and move slowly. Don’t frighten or rush the rabbit. Once you have the harness in place, allow the rabbit to wear it for a few minutes at a time and take it off. Work up to having the rabbit drag the leash around the house before picking up the leash yourself.

7

Consider using clicker training. Many people suggest using clickers to reinforce association.^[5] Each time you feed the rabbit, click the clicker so that the rabbit associates the click with food. Then, when you’re training, a click from the device tells the rabbit a treat is coming.

• Try to click right as the desired behavior is happening so the animal knows what it did to get the reward. Give the rabbit a treat or something else they enjoy within a few seconds of the click for each and every time you click, even if you click accidentally. The rabbit will learn that a click means a treat and try to earn clicks.

8

Wean your rabbit off the treats gradually. Once your rabbit has a skill down begin to give the treats less frequently. Give its reward once and then don’t the next time, or give it a treat only every few times. Eventually you may not need treats at all.

• In time, reward your rabbit with petting and toys and only use food occasionally to keep the behavior strong.
• Rabbits like gentle strokes on their heads. Do not stroke the rabbit on its body; this is alarming to a rabbit. Be patient and take things slowly to avoid creating fear in your rabbit.

9

Reinforce the training as necessary. From time to time your rabbit may need to relearn a skill. That is, you may need to bring the incentives back. Don’t be afraid to do so.

• Never scold, punish, shout or even say "no" to the rabbit during training. This is counterproductive and will make your rabbit more fearful and delay training.

Method 3 of 4: Training Your Rabbit to Use a Litter Box

1

Figure out where your rabbit is eliminating. They naturally choose a particular spot in the cage to eliminate. Because they use the same spot repeatedly, you can use this to your advantage.

2

Place a little of the dirty bedding in the litter box you bought for their cage.This will encourage the rabbit to use the litter box. Make sure to clean the rest of the cage after moving a bit of the dirty bedding.

3

Place the litter box in the place the rabbit has chosen to eliminate. There are litter boxes for rabbits made to fit in the corners of cages or you can use a rectangular version if the cage is large enough. If you position is right, the rabbit should naturally continue to use the same spot, only this time it will be in the litter box.

• Of course, larger litter boxes are possible when the rabbit is enjoying “bunny hop” time outside the cage.

Method 4 of 4: Addressing Rabbit Aggression

1

Make sure your rabbit knows who is in charge. Chances are your rabbit will want to rule the house. While you can’t expect the kind of submission you can get from a dog, you must have the respect of your rabbit in order to train it.

• The most common way rabbits try to assert dominance is inappropriate nipping or biting you to try to herd you or get you to leave your sitting place. If this occurs, let out a short, loud, high-pitched squeal and either put your rabbit down on the floor (if it has jumped up where you’re sitting) or pick it up and move it out of the way from you (if it is on the floor already). Do this firmly, but gently. You don’t want to hurt your rabbit or make it fear you, you simply want to assert that you are in charge. If your rabbit continues the behavior, put it in its crate for a “time-out.”

2

Address any aggression in your rabbit. First, approach your rabbit calmly so you do not elicit a fear response from the rabbit. Hang out on the floor with your rabbit. Have some treats on the floor. Reward the rabbit for coming closer to you. Leave your hand down. If the rabbit comes up to you and does not seem afraid or does not try to bite you, try to gently stroke the rabbit's head for just a few seconds.

• If you do not back down and avoid the reflex to “run away” if the bunny charges you, the rabbit will learn that this behavior does not work to intimidate you.^[6]
• Never hit the rabbit. You and your hands are the sources of food and pleasure, like petting on top of the rabbit’s head.
• If you are afraid of being injured, wear long pants, shoes, long sleeves and gloves if necessary to protect yourself from bites.^[7]

3

Investigate whether your rabbit's aggression has an underlying cause. A change in your rabbit’s behavior, including aggression, should be investigated to eliminate the chance that there is a medical issue causing the problem.^[8] Consult with a veterinarian familiar with rabbits to rule out pain, for instance, as a cause for misbehavior.

• Hormones can also influence bunny behavior and having your rabbit spayed or neutered may help decrease territorial aggression, for instance.

Sourch: wikihow.com

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How to Bond With Your Rabbit (Part 3)

Part 3 of 3 :Bonding with Your Rabbit

1

Be patient. Let your rabbit out of the cage to run around and explore. You may find your rabbit wants to hide somewhere dark, like under a couch, bed or dresser at the beginning. But rabbits are curious little creatures. They will not be able to resist the temptation of coming out to explore their new home. Just give the rabbit some time.

• When your rabbit feels brave enough to come out for a look around, sit quietly (on the floor is best) and let your rabbit come to you. Rabbits are super cute and fluffy and the human being tends to want to hold, cuddle and pet the rabbit. Remember, they are prey animals and for the first day or two they don't know if you are going to eat them or not! So let your rabbit come to you first. If the rabbit sniffs or nudges you with his nose, do not move away. This is a good sign that your rabbit is starting to trust you

2

Know how to hold your rabbit properly. It's an easy step to overlook, but an important part of bonding with your rabbit includes learning to hold him properly. Failure to do so can make your bunny uncomfortable, and may lead to him squirming and struggling to get away. This can be painful for you and for the rabbit, as any kind of thrashing could cause neck and spine injury to the rabbit.

• Be gentle but firm. Don't squeeze the rabbit, but make sure that your hold on him is firm enough that he won't fall or squirm out of your hands. Use the minimum amount of restraint necessary to keep him safely in your arms.^[27]
• Support the back and hindquarters. This is a crucial part of properly holding a rabbit and should not be overlooked.^[28]

3

Let the rabbit come to you. If your rabbit isn't comfortable being handled yet, he certainly won't enjoy being grabbed and pulled out of his cage. Instead of removing him from his little home to spend time together, let him come to you. Leave the door of his cage open and wait until he feels like coming out to explore.^[29]

4

Give yourself alone time. This is particularly important if you recently adopted your rabbit, as he'll need time to adjust and grow comfortable to the people and place that make up his home.^[30]

• Withdraw into a quiet, closed-off room. It should be just you and your rabbit, with no other animals and nothing to distract your bunny.^[31]
• Offer the rabbit treats. These can help disarm an anxious animal, and they're good for your bunny, too. Aim for healthy treats like a baby carrot, a tiny slice of apple or banana, or a small spoonful of oats. Let your bunny eat a piece of the treats off the floor, then try to feed him out of your hand.^[32]
• Make this a daily practice until your rabbit gets comfortable being around you. Repetition and routine are the keys to familiarity.^[33]

5

Don't rush the rabbit. If your rabbit is new to the household and isn't comfortable being handled or petted, don't force it on him. That will only traumatize him and could cause him to be fearful of you in the future.^[34] In fact, some rabbits never become accustomed to handling, because of their status in the wild as prey animals.^[35] If your rabbit won't let you touch him, there are other ways you can bond with and soothe your nervous bunny.

• Use a soothing voice to calm your rabbit. Talk to him often, and let him get used to the sound of your voice.^[36] Let it get used to your voice. Rabbits are social creatures and they get bored sitting in cage all day. Sometimes, just by talking to your rabbit, it will lay down and gently grind its teeth in approval!
• Never yell at your rabbit. They can't be disciplined or trained like other pets. They won't understand why you are yelling and you will only scare your rabbit if you are loud.
• Offer your open hand for your bunny to sniff. If he's not used to being around you, he may need to get accustomed to the way you look, smell, and sound before he's comfortable being handled.^[37]
• Never make any sudden movements around your rabbit. This could frighten him and send him running back into his cage.^[38]

6

Try mimicking your rabbit. Some rabbit owners may not be comfortable trying this at home, especially in front of other people. But some rabbit specialists advise that pretending to wash your face and head the way your rabbit does can be disarming to a new, frightened rabbit. Seeing his human act the way he does might help him get comfortable in his new home.^[39]

7 Adjust to his schedule. Remember that rabbits are most active around sunrise and sunset each day, and spend much of the afternoon resting. If you want to initiate playtime or bonding time with your bunny, do so during the time of day when he's most active and most likely to want to play.^[40]

Continuous to read :

How to Bond With Your Rabbit (Part 1)

How to Bond With Your Rabbit (Part 2)

Source: wikihow.com

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How to Bond With Your Rabbit (Part 2)

Part 2 of 3: Making Your Rabbit Comfortable In Your Home

1

Create a comfortable space. Your rabbit may be resistant to your affection because he does not yet feel safe in your home. You can help your rabbit adjust by creating a quiet, comfortable place for him in which he will be safe from any other pets in the house. You may even want to keep your rabbit's cage in a separate room that will allow him to feel safe from commotion and disruption, although such a location may reduce your rabbit's interaction with people, and could end up causing him to have a harder time adjusting to your home.^[15]

·         Choose an area in your home that will allow for daily interaction with and observation of the people in your household, but is still removed enough that your rabbit won't feel frightened by the chaos of day-to-day life.^[16]

·         Be sure to keep the room your rabbit lives in at a comfortable temperature. Most rabbits need a stable temperature between 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit (15.5 to 21.1 degrees Celsius). Anything higher or lower than that range could prove fatal for your rabbit.^[17]

·         Keep your rabbit's cage out of direct sunlight. Providing adequate shade will help regulate his environmental temperature and keep him from overheating.^[18]

2

Give your rabbit room to play. Exercise is an important part of a rabbit's life, and playtime is often the best exercise. If your rabbit's crate isn't big enough to allow him to jump and run around in, build a little enclosure (preferably indoors) for him to run and play in.^[19]

·         Play areas should be rabbit-proofed. Remove any electrical cords and other household objects that you don't want your rabbit to chew on. If it is an outdoor area, be sure that the enclosure is completely fenced in and that your rabbit will not be able to hop out of the enclosure.^[20]

·         Supervise your rabbit any time he is outside of his cage. Rabbits are curious animals and can easily get hurt or find their way into dangerous places.^[21]

family:Symbol;mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol;color:black;mso-fareast-language:RU'>·         Keep your rabbit's cage out of direct sunlight. Providing adequate shade will help regulate his environmental temperature and keep him from overheating.^[18]

3

Feed your rabbit a proper diet. One of the best ways to ensure your rabbit likes you is by feeding him the things he needs the most.







·         Rabbits need a constant supply of grass hay, like timothy grass (Phleum pratense) or brome grass (Bromus), to ensure gastrointestinal health.^[22]

·         Give your rabbit a pellet food formula with a minimum of 15 to 19% protein content and 18% fiber content. Rabbits over six months old should be given between 1/8 and 1/4 cup of pellet food per five pounds of body weight daily. (So, for example, a ten pound rabbit should be given between 1/4 and 1/2 cup of food every day.)^[23]

·         Feed your rabbit fresh leafy greens. Dark leaf lettuce, turnip greens, and carrot tops are often preferred by rabbits. Your rabbit should get a minimum of two cups of leafy greens per six pounds of body weight. (So, for example, a 12 pound rabbit would receive a minimum of four cups of leafy greens each day.)^[24]

·         Ensure that your rabbit has constant access to fresh, clean drinking water, either from a rabbit bottle or a sturdy bowl that won't be easily tipped over.^[25]

4

Give your rabbit plenty of toys. Rabbits love to play. You can buy toys specifically made for rabbits, or make your own at home.





·         Rabbits typically need toys that allow them to chew, dig/burrow, and hide. Empty cardboard boxes make excellent starter toys, but you can get as creative as you want while making or buying toys to enrich your rabbit's play time.^[26]

Continuous to read :

How to Bond With Your Rabbit (Part 1)

How to Bond With Your Rabbit (Part 3)

Source: wikihow.com

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